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Couture Week’s are my absolute favourites. The glamour, the imagination, the pomp and the delight. For me, it’s so far removed from reality it’s an art form of escapism, a means of being free for the few minutes of feasting my eyes on the extravagance of each piece. From Old Hollywood glamour, glitz and sophistication at Elie Saab, the over-the-top leopard and fur-ness at Jean Paul Gaultier to understated-overstated shapes and fabrics at Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2013 Couture was certainly a sight to be seen.
VIKTOR & ROLF
Nothing says allure like the colour back. Black with minimal hair, makeup and flat shoes is alluring at it’s best. The Viktor & Rolf show provided such allure. With the draped silks, modest shapes and contrasting furs, paired with flat sandals, the show was a contradiction of terms. A couture show with opulence in fabrics and styles with a twist of minimalist pairings.
As ever, Sergeenko takes references from her Russian heritage for her Fall couture collection. Showing a juxtaposition of stockings-and-suspenders with a high necked Victorian collar alongside virginal white fur with orange leather demi-gloves.The show was a beautiful medley of constricted values of rules with rebellion peaking through.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Opulence, glamour and other-worldly are all words that can always be used to describe a Gaultier couture show. Fall 2013 did not sway from this way of thinking. Feathers, fur, sequins, tailoring, leopard, headwear, veils, glitz, leather, lace, jewels, chains, velvet, silk, chiffon are all elements of this show, along with, as you can imagine, many many more. There was a tone of burlesque to the show, many circle elements in the garments; figure hugging and curve creating shapes that emphasise the female form, keeping much to Gaultier’s signature style.
The Elie Saab show was Elie Saab Elie Saab Elie Saab. His dresses have become iconic and easily recognisable for their classic shapes, OTT glitz, sophisticated elegance and movie-star quality. There is never a collection of his that wouldn’t make you feel a
million billion dollars if you were one of the lucky few to be able to even try one of his gowns on. The Fall 2013 collection was no different. With his muted tones of taupe, nude and mauve paired with his classic aubergines, ruby and emerald; the collection was as glamorous as ever, a collection to be lusted, desired and pored over forever… Or at least until the next collection.
There is always excitement that surrounds a Dior show, especially since Raf Simons took over as creative director. The Fall couture collection did not disappoint the many anxiously anticipating spectators in the audience. ‘Freedom’ was the starting point for the creation of this collection by Simons and it was certainly apparent in the lack of restriction in the garments, with still possessing a form fitting silhouette and immaculate lines. The freedom comes mainly from the fabrics used in the collection. From muted sequins to jewel toned taffeta and silks; full length fringing and hints of Houndstooth, the show was sprinkled with surprises.
Alexis Mabille’s influence for his Fall 2013 couture show came from the brush strokes from eighteenth century painter Giovanni Boldini. You can definitely see in this collection Mabille’s creative marriage of bring old and new styles together, tying them with the definitive idea of the brush strokes and art pieces. Beautifully crafted silks, chiffons and brocade frame the show with the idea of mixture heavily present.
Being a favourite for red carpet goers, Zuhair Murad’s Fall 2013 collection is one in which can be imagined being worn by the world’s most famous and glamorous faces. With an edgy twist, this collection brought us the tying of classic glamour with sex appeal and understated controversy. Opulence is what Murad does best and this collection did not fail to bring us the pomp and glitz that consumers crave when observing a Zuhair Murad show. I love the idea of the gowns being modestly covering the body, with hints of flesh peaking through wide set lace, sparsely placed sequins or chiffon.