GALLIANO RETURNS #MARGIELAMONDAY.

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If you haven’t been highly anticipating Galliano’s return to the fashion week calendar for Maison Martin Margiela after four years, then you don’t belong here. I’m joking. (slightly).

The collection itself was undeniable Galliano’s, albeit with touches of Margiela-minimalism. The set design was quite possibly one of the most pared back in Galliano’s history, with a small audience, white seating and no decorative adornments. With a colour palette of rich ruby reds, palatial golds, deep blacks, creamy camels and hints of animal print, the collection was a world away from your typical Margiela show. Gold voiles, silk taffeta, highly embellished breast plates all adorned the showstoppers, each look complete with two-tone platform shoes and elaborate headpieces. For a Margiela couture show, the fabrics were perhaps more extravagant than typically expected.

The theme of decay offered a haunting washed-at-sea vibe with sea shells and latex evoking a creature of the ocean; hair plastered to the head and face also suggested a sense of a washed up creation.

The show was seemingly a humbling experience for Galliano as he reflected over his fallen star vicariously through the medium of design, appearing very briefly at the end of the show wearing a traditional white lab coat as worn by the Maison Martin Margiela team.

FROWers at the show was basically a who’s who? list of anyone that’s anyone in the fashion industry: Anna Wintour, Alber Elbaz and Nick Knight were just a few to mention. As for the show? Well fashion has recently started to feel repetitive (normcore?), predictable (normcore?) and almost trend-less (normcore?) Galliano has single-handedly, with just one show, made the shows an event again, both in person and online. Never have I seen a more highly anticipated show before on social media; everyone on my timeline, news feed and Instagram home page was tagging #MargielaMonday with abundance.

For me, Galliano’s return says much about the fashion industry as it does Galliano himself as well as the house of Margiela. I personally am beyond glad that those inside the industry as well as those who appear to be outsiders looking in, have now allowed themselves to look past his “scandal” and accept him for the genius that he so clearly is.

Long live John Galliano.

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COUTURE WEEK OVERVIEW : FALL 3013

Couture Week’s are my absolute favourites. The glamour, the imagination, the pomp and the delight. For me, it’s so far removed from reality it’s an art form of escapism, a means of being free for the few minutes of feasting my eyes on the extravagance of each piece. From Old Hollywood glamour, glitz and sophistication at Elie Saab, the over-the-top leopard and fur-ness at Jean Paul Gaultier to understated-overstated shapes and fabrics at Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2013 Couture was certainly a sight to be seen.

VIKTOR & ROLF

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Nothing says allure like the colour back. Black with minimal hair, makeup and flat shoes is alluring at it’s best. The Viktor & Rolf show provided such allure. With the draped silks, modest shapes and contrasting furs, paired with flat sandals, the show was a contradiction of terms. A couture show with opulence in fabrics and styles with a twist of minimalist pairings. 

ULYANA SERGEENKO

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As ever, Sergeenko takes references from her Russian heritage for her Fall couture collection. Showing a juxtaposition of stockings-and-suspenders with a high necked Victorian collar alongside virginal white fur with orange leather demi-gloves.The show was a beautiful medley of constricted values of rules with rebellion peaking through.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

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Opulence, glamour and other-worldly are all words that can always be used to describe a Gaultier couture show. Fall 2013 did not sway from this way of thinking. Feathers, fur, sequins, tailoring, leopard, headwear, veils, glitz, leather, lace, jewels, chains, velvet, silk, chiffon are all elements of this show, along with, as you can imagine, many many more. There was a tone of burlesque to the show, many circle elements in the garments; figure hugging and curve creating shapes that emphasise the female form, keeping much to Gaultier’s signature style.

ELIE SAAB

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The Elie Saab show was Elie Saab Elie Saab Elie Saab. His dresses have become iconic and easily recognisable for their classic shapes, OTT glitz, sophisticated elegance and movie-star quality. There is never a collection of his that wouldn’t make you feel a million billion dollars if you were one of the lucky few to be able to even try one of his gowns on. The Fall 2013 collection was no different. With his muted tones of taupe, nude and mauve paired with his classic aubergines, ruby and emerald; the collection was as glamorous as ever, a collection to be lusted, desired and pored over forever… Or at least until the next collection.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

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There is always excitement that surrounds a Dior show, especially since Raf Simons took over as creative director. The Fall couture collection did not disappoint the many anxiously anticipating spectators in the audience. ‘Freedom’ was the starting point for the creation of this collection by Simons and it was certainly apparent in the lack of restriction in the garments, with still possessing a form fitting silhouette and immaculate lines. The freedom comes mainly from the fabrics used in the collection. From muted sequins to jewel toned taffeta and silks; full length fringing and hints of Houndstooth, the show was sprinkled with surprises.

ALEXIS MABILLE

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Alexis Mabille’s influence for his Fall 2013 couture show came from the brush strokes from eighteenth century painter Giovanni Boldini. You can definitely see in this collection Mabille’s creative marriage of bring old and new styles together, tying them with the definitive idea of the brush strokes and art pieces. Beautifully crafted silks, chiffons and brocade frame the show with the idea of mixture heavily present.

ZUHAIR MURAD

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Being a favourite for red carpet goers, Zuhair Murad’s Fall 2013 collection is one in which can be imagined being worn by the world’s most famous and glamorous faces. With an edgy twist, this collection brought us the tying of classic glamour with sex appeal and understated controversy. Opulence is what Murad does best and this collection did not fail to bring us the pomp and glitz that consumers crave when observing a Zuhair Murad show. I love the idea of the gowns being modestly covering the body, with hints of flesh peaking through wide set lace, sparsely placed sequins or chiffon. 

COUTURE WEEK: STEPHANE ROLLAND SPRING 2013

What could I possibly find more exciting than a monochrome collection, given my adoration of black&white? A monochrome couture collection you say?!

Ohhh yes, boy oh boy am I talking couture. Couture with Hollywood glamour, androgyny, sharp tailoring, shiny things AND a slight hint of emerald green? No, it cannot be! They say that if something sounds too good to be true, then it probably is. But not in this case!! Here I bring you the Stephane Rolland Spring Couture 2013 show shown in Paris last week, and my, what a spectacle! My commentary could never do this collection justice so I’ll just say this: I will go to bed tonight dreaming of walking into work, Starbucks, my old school, or wherever my imagination takes me, wearing any piece from this collection. Because let’s face it, to wear any of these, you’d automatically become a superstar.

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COUTURE WEEK: OSCAR CARVALLO SPRING 2013

The perfect mix of red carpet glamour, show-stopping eccentricity and underwater chic, the Oscar Carvallo Spring Couture 2013 show was a triumph for the designer who presented a collection of spectacular standards. Soft, warm and flattering tones emblazoned dressed with notable purity, garments embellished with the most darling scale-effects were on show giving the whole look a kinetic feel, making the garment move with the rhythm of the body. Mixed with modern pixie-cuts, these ultimately-chic ensembles portrayed a life of glitz, glam and most notably, a character that a girl is in her underwater fantasies, a mermaid of the finest silks, no less.

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COUTURE WEEK: ON AURA TOUT VU SPRING 2013

Shining in iridescence, busy with colour and rich in texture, the On Aura Tout Vu Spring Couture 2013 show had a distinct insect theme that was prominent throughout. The colour palette was to die for with rich emerald greens, peacock blues, pearlescent whites, ravishing reds and deep purples. The gothic seductress meets demure extrovert is the woman of the show, I really liked how the hair was softer against the statement of the clothes. It was almost a softer version of a 1940s updo, which on paper doesn’t go with the theme of the show overall, but seemed to really work in conjunction with the whole look. The beadwork was incredible, the intricacies of the craftsmanship in each piece is staggering, I can imagine that these photos do not do the colour justice!

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COUTURE WEEK: IRIS VAN HERPEN SPRING 2013

Other-worldy beauty, futuristic fantasies, tantalising technology, the Iris Van Herpen Spring Couture 2013 show embodied everything that 2013 portrays: Moving into new beginnings, jumping to the future, leaving behind the end of the world and entering into a new one. It is these aesthetics that must’ve attracted Van Herpen fan Lady Gaga into wearing her clothes. Severely shaped, with show-stopping allure just completely encaptures the fierce beauty within each of us. For me, this collection shows another side of a woman’s personality. You can have a fairytale princess side of you in the shape of an Elie Saab gown, and you can have a fierce, go-getting, I don’t give an F side of you in the shape of an Iris Van Herpen number. Yes ma’am.

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COUTURE WEEK: ZUHAIR MURAD SPRING 2013

Golden Goddess. Shimmering silk, lavishing lace, fab feathers, glittering gold and spectacular sequins (how’s about that for alliteration?) was the epitome of the Zuhair Murad Spring Couture 2013 show in Paris last week. Not one known for minimalism, Murad certainly presented a collection to stun. Without being overpowering, there were a million things to see at once on each garment, so much intricate detailing, beadwork, billowing fabric, skin-skimming silks and perfectly muted hair, makeup and shoes. A designer with a heavy celebrity posse of clientele, it is a no-brainer that we will see these glimmering beacons of fabulousness on the red carpet of the Academy Awards next month.

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